FAQ's

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1. Which fabric should I choose (cotton / polyester / nylon / blends / stretch) to balance handfeel, cost, and durability?

• Cotton: soft, breathable, easy to dye; wrinkles/shrinks unless finished. Good for apparel/linens.

• Polyester (PET): strong, wrinkle-resistant, quick-dry, great colorfastness; can feel less “natural” unless brushed/peached. Ideal for outdoor, home, uniforms.

• Nylon: highest toughness and abrasion resistance; great for bags, active gear; can yellow with UV without stabilizers.

• Blends (e.g., CVC, T/C): mix comfort with strength and lower cost; better wrinkle and shrink control.

• With stretch (spandex/OP/bi-stretch): adds comfort, recovery and fit; watch heat limits and chlorine sensitivity.
  Rule of thumb: prioritize durability/low care → polyester or nylon (or their blends); prioritize natural feel/comfort → cotton or cotton-rich blends; add spandex when fit/mobility matters.

2. How do density, GSM, and fiber fineness affect strength and drape?

• Ends/picks per inch (weave/knit density): ↑ density → ↑ strength, opacity, and snag resistance, but stiffer hand and slower dry.

• GSM/oz-yd² (weight): ↑ GSM → fuller body, warmth, opacity; ↓ GSM → lighter, airier drape.

• Fiber fineness (denier/tex, staple length): finer filaments (lower denier) → softer, silkier drape; coarser → crisper, more durable. Longer staple → smoother, stronger yarns.

• Balance: to keep soft drape without losing strength, combine finer yarns with higher density or use high-tenacity filament.

3. What’s the difference between OEKO-TEX, GRS, GOTS, and bluesign, and how do I verify a supplier?

• OEKO-TEX Standard 100: product-level safety (limits harmful substances).

• OEKO-TEX STeP/Made in Green: facility/process transparency + product safety.

• GRS (Global Recycled Standard): recycled content + chain of custody + chemical and social requirements.

• GOTS: organic natural fibers + strict chemical/environmental and social criteria.

• bluesign: input stream management for chemicals and processes.
  Verification: ask for the certificate (scope, product category, validity dates, license number) and check it on the scheme’s official database. Ensure your exact product and site are covered, not just a trading entity.

4. How durable are finishes like DWR, FR, antibacterial, UV, and far-infrared?

• DWR (fluorine-free or short-chain): typically 10–30 home washes before noticeable drop; heat reactivation helps.

• FR: “inherent” FR fibers (e.g., modacrylic/aramid) don’t wash out; topical FR on cotton can lose performance—confirm after-launder test results.

• Antibacterial (e.g., silver, zinc, quats): durability varies by chemistry and binder; confirm log-reduction after 20–50 washes.

• UV protection (UPF): knit/weave density, dark colors, and UV stabilizers matter; test after weathering.

• Far-infrared (ceramic/graphene powders): effect is inherent in the dope or print; comfort depends on base fabric and emissivity.
  Always specify required test methods and after-wash performance (e.g., “AATCC 22 spray rating ≥ 80 after 20 washes”).

5. Which standards and tests do I need to pass?

• Colorfastness: AATCC/ISO washing, crocking, perspiration, light (specify grade, e.g., ≥ 4).

• Abrasion/Pilling: ISO 12947 (Martindale) or ASTM D4966; pilling per ISO 12945.

• Flammability: apparel (e.g., 16 CFR 1610), drapery/upholstery often NFPA 701; transportation/contract may need additional specs.

• Chemical compliance: REACH SVHC, CA Prop 65, restricted substance lists (brand-specific), formaldehyde limits.

• Dimensional change/spirality, seam slippage, tensile/tear as applicable.
  Map tests to end use and buyer requirements; include them in the spec sheet with target values and methods.

6. What yarns and constructions suit outdoor/medical/cushions/curtains?

• Outdoor: solution-dyed polyester or acrylic; UV stabilizers; DWR; mildew resistance; tighter weaves or warp knits.

• Medical & seating cushions: durable woven or spacer knit; antibacterial/antimicrobial options; wipe-clean PU/TPU film or breathable lamination; non-slip bases.

• Cushions/sofa mats: high abrasion base (polyester/nylon), anti-slip backings, foam/latex or fiberfill inside, removable covers with strong zippers.

• Curtains: FR (where required) + dimensional stability; blackout/thermal coatings; wide-width options; for contract projects, NFPA 701 readiness.

• Stretch woven (e.g., 75D/72F + 40D OP bi-stretch): great for fitted covers and apparel that need comfort and recovery.

7. What’s the difference between disperse/reactive/acid/pigment printing, and how do I control color?

• Disperse (polyester): vivid, washfast, heat fixation (sublimation or HT).

• Reactive (cotton/viscose/linen): bright, excellent washfastness; requires thorough washing off.

• Acid (nylon/silk/wool): deep shades, good fastness; acid fixation and after-wash needed.

• Pigment (any fiber): simple process and low water use; hand may feel drier unless softened; rubfastness must be managed.
  Color control tips: pre-treat consistently, keep fabric whiteness/pH steady, calibrate profiles/ICC, agree on ΔE tolerances (e.g., ≤ 1.0–1.5 for strike-offs), and keep a golden sample. Minimize lot-to-lot variation by fixing yarn sources and finish parameters.

8. How do I estimate cost and lead time?

• Cost drivers: fiber (commodity vs specialty), yarn count/denier, construction, GSM, dye/print route, chemical add-ons, finishing, width, order size, QA testing, packaging, freight/tariffs.

• Quick math (fabric): Cost/kg × (GSM × yield m² per product) + processing + wastage (3–7%) + testing/packaging.

• Typical lead time (guide): development 1–2 weeks (lab dips/strike-offs), bulk weaving/knitting 1–3 weeks, dye/print/finish 1–2 weeks, QA 2–5 days, logistics depends on mode and lane.

• Reduce lead time via greige stock, standard color books, and pre-approved trims/labels.

9. What are the trade-offs for sustainable materials (rPET, recycled nylon, TENCEL™/lyocell, bamboo viscose, bio-based polyesters)?

• rPET: strong, widely available, price near virgin in volume; watch flake/yarn quality and yellowing.

• Recycled nylon (esp. 6,6): excellent performance; typically higher cost and more limited supply.

• Lyocell (TENCEL™): soft hand, moisture management, good strength; higher cost than cotton, needs careful finishing to avoid fibrillation.

• Bamboo viscose: soft and drapey; it’s regenerated cellulose—look for responsible producers (FSC, closed-loop).

• Bio-based PET/PA: partial bio content; performance similar to virgin; verify claims and percentages.
  Always tie claims to certifications (GRS, GOTS, FSC) and publish real data (e.g., recycled %, water/energy reductions).

10. How do I write a professional fabric spec (tech pack) and acceptance criteria to reduce risk?
    Include

• Product name & end use, fiber content %, yarn count/denier/filament, construction (weave/knit), GSM and tolerance (e.g., ±5%), width & usable width, finishes/coatings (chemistry, add-on, cure), color standard and ΔE tolerance, handfeel notes.

• Performance targets + methods: colorfastness, abrasion, pilling, shrinkage, tear/tensile, FR, UPF, waterproof/breathable metrics, after-wash requirements.

• Compliance: RSL, REACH/Prop 65, certificates needed (OEKO-TEX, GRS, etc.).

• Packaging & labeling: roll length, core size, bag/box, barcode/traceability.

• Inspection: AQL level, sampling plan, and clear fail/pass thresholds (e.g., Martindale ≥ 40,000 cycles; shade ΔE ≤ 1.0 vs master).
  Lock these in before bulk, approve lab dips/handlooms/strike-offs, and keep retains for any claims.